By Liz Moscow | Times Call
RollinGreens is not a marijuana dispensary on wheels, though the name would definitely work well for such an endeavor.
Rather than delivering eighths of purple kush to the couch-locked-stoner-set, Ryan Cunningham and his fiancee/business partner, Lindsey Mandel, serve up inventive Mex-Asian fusion cuisine from inside a 24-foot cargo trailer-cum-commercial kitchen, which they call RollinGreens.
The two partners named their business in homage to Cunningham’s parents, who started a RollinGreens food truck in 1978. With hopes of emulating the success of the original RollinGreens, Cunningham and Mandel offer an eclectic roster of dishes to the good folk of Boulder County and can be found hawking their local-global-health-conscious cuisine at a parking lot or farmers market near you.
Don’t look for a fancy rig, however. Although green is featured in the name, RollinGreens’ truck is stark white and has little signage or branding to speak of. Rather than following your eyes toward a bright green, pink or otherwise decked-out food truck, follow your nose — it will lead you to their aromatic gourmet cuisine.
A little more than two years since their launch, the duo have whittled an extensive menu to a few tried-and-true crowd faves. In an effort to bring fresh, local, farm-to-curb cuisine to you, RollinGreens uses organic ingredients wherever possible and features just-picked vegetables in many of their entrees. For this type of freshness and quality, you’ll pay a bit more than you’d expect from food from a truck, but once you taste the full-flavored features, you might agree the prices could be justified.
I found RollinGreens in the parking lot at Liquor Mart. At first thought, the location overlooking busy Canyon Road might seem to have nothing to offer, but when you combine the view of the Flatirons with the stellar people-watching afforded by the steady stream of midday Liquor Mart regulars, well, you’ve just got yourself a tuft of prime lunching real estate.
Many of the menu offerings are appropriate for or can be tweaked to accommodate those with food allergies or on vegetarian diets.
We started our meal with an order of Millet tots, RollinGreen’s version of the Ore-Ida staple. From what I can tell, a sort of polenta is made using organic millet instead of corn. Once the thick porridge cools on a sheet pan, it’s cut into rectangles, deep fried and gently salted. An ample portion of these golden crispy nuggets is a great accompaniment to any of the main dishes.
Another starter, Jalapeno Poppers, combines the goodness of an age-old TGI Friday’s-style appetizer fave with the crunch and global fusion factor of an egg roll wrapper. Hand-rolled every day, each wrapper is stuffed full of Tillamook cheddar, cream cheese and a fresh jalapeno pepper. Served with a homemade sweet chili sauce alongside, these spicy cigars are addictive.
Of the four daily entrees, the grassfed Bulgogi Tacos beckoned to be sampled first. Though it would have sat better with me if the $9 portion had been three tacos rather than two, RollinGreens’ version of Korean sweet BBQ beef makes your taste buds stand up and take notice. Sweet soy- and sesame-flavored sirloin steak is served swaddled inside non-GMO Abbondanza tortillas. Fresh field greens from Ollin Farms top the tacos. The finishing flourishes include a squirt of spinach and jalapeno sauce and a fresh dollop of sour cream. On the side rests a nest of kimchi, Korean-fermented cabbage salad.
Organic Tempeh Tacos aren’t just for vegetarians anymore. Even meat eaters will find these soy-based tacos tasty and satisfying. They begin with Westsoy organic tempeh, which is marinated in a house-made teriyaki sauce, then sauteed until it’s crispy and caramelized on the outside and tender within. Both shredded cheddar and jack cheese are sprinkled atop, as is that delicious spinach jalapeno sauce and organic sour cream. Each component of these tacos is seasoned separately and completely. Even the tortillas come with spice sprinkled on. A side of flash-fried homemade chips rounds out the dish.
In the two years since RollinGreens has rolled out onto the Boulder scene, they’ve expanded their fleet.
They now boast two trucks and a scooter juicer, aka RollinGreens Juicery, where they plan to offer fresh, nutritious, made-to-order juices off the back of a scooter. Interested in getting your daily intake of liquefied vitamins from the back of a motorized two-wheeler? You can do that by following RollinGreens’ social media sites to find out where they’ll be.
Just remember, while you can get healthy, organic, gourmet fare and, soon, even green juice from the juicery, you’ll have to go elsewhere, though not too far, to find the “kind” type of green.
Food: 3 stars
Service: 2 stars
Ambience: Whatever you make of it
Address: Check their website or Facebook page for current location, though they are at Boulder Farmers’ Market most Saturdays
Hours: : Subject to change. Check with RollinGreens
Credit cards: Accepted