Edmonton, CAN: Dovetail Delicatessan a true reflection of the blossoming YEG food scene

By Liane Faulder  |  Edmonton Journal


I stopped in Friday afternoon during the opening celebrations of Dovetail Deli, a new food shop on 124 Street. Owned by Kara and Nevin Fenske of Drift food truck celebrity, the new space offers eat-in and take-out options for those who love nothing more than a beautifully brined and roasted pork shoulder, sliced and layered on a fresh bun with plenty of chimichurri sauce and a nice crunch of pickled fennel. Of course there are numerous other sandwich options at this new deli, depending on the day of the week, and lots of salads, dips, and samosas to tempt those who either want to eat at the deli (which has a liquor license, hallelujah!) or grab something for the evening meal at home.  Dovetail will also be selling home-made condiments, such as the ketchup that Drift is famous for, as well as pickles and other preserves.

The new deli marks a shift for the Fenske duo, who opened Drift food truck four years ago, and have been going flat-out (what with catering in the off-season) ever since. The truck will still be on the scene, but not as much. Watch for Drift at events such as Interstellar Rodeo, the 124 Grand Market, What the Truck, and at their regular spot Wednesdays at lunch on 107th Street at Jasper Avenue.

I asked Nevin why he decided to call the new deli Dovetail, instead of Drift, which would have made sense, given the immense popularity of the food truck.

“We wanted to do a different concept, and we didn’t want people looking for the Drift products,” he says. Dovetail felt like a nice fit between what they had been doing, and what they want to do going forward – which is to become part of the 124th Street food community.

At the launch of the new space, located at 10721-124 St. and open Monday to Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. (780-966-7328) – numerous members of the YEG food blogging and tweeting community were on hand, sharing a glass of bubbly and enjoying delicious samples of Dovetail fare (check out the tapenade, elegant and snappy). I looked at the celebrants, and then past them, out the window to the storefronts of other food-related businesses thriving on this hip strip, including Duchess and Cafe Tiramisu. Relish, a new burger joint, is poised to open, and Col. Mustard’s Canteen also hopes to break ground on its new, rebuilt location later this spring. There’s a lot to celebrate. Right here. Right now.