By Joy Summers | City Pages
Another food truck season is finally up and running. Among the first trucks of the new crop of street food entrepreneurs is a grassy-green truck adorned with a little goat that is on its third day of downtown Minneapolis business. The Moral Omnivore truck promises ethical eats “from beets to bacon.” We slapped on a little sunscreen and placed our first order.
The team inside the truck is Ross Stirratt and Linnea Logas, a young married couple. Stirratt grew up in Buffalo, Minnesota, and graduated college with a degree in philosophy, setting him up for a career in the restaurant industry. While working at a pizza shop in Minnetonka, he dreamed up the menu for the Moral Omnivore (nicknamed Mo on their website.)
Logas also grew up in Buffalo and graduated with a degree in philosophy and is now working toward her masters in marriage and family therapy, setting her up for a successful working experience with her spouse in the cozy confines of a food truck.
Their menu lists vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free items as well as dishes to delight carnivores. The Wellington burger ($8.50) is topped with caramelized onions and a smear of earthy, good pate. It was juicy, savory, but hard to eat. The bun disintegrated as the juices seeped into the soft bread.
In contrast, the sturdy, toasted bun used for the little fried tomato BLTs ($7 for two) were the right bread for the job. Tender little red tomatoes are fried crunchy on the outside and sweet and soft on the inside. The tomatoes are set atop some tartly seasoned dark greens and crunchy, cabbage-dominated slaw. Beneath that are hunks of seriously good bacon. There are all kinds of textures lurking in each bite. The flavors are tart, sweet, salty, bright, and smoky.
On the side we tried the curried mushroom fries ($3). A paper boat cradled slices of portobello mushroom in a super-crispy panko crust. The steamy perfume wafting off these makes a fantastic facial. The heady mix of garlic and curry are balanced by the mellow mushroom flavor and the creamy mustard dipping sauce.
In addition to Stirratt and Logas’s commitment to selling locally sourced, ethically raised food, the Moral Omnivore donates produce to local food shelves and hosts a weekly “Eat With Your Heart Out” day in which 5 percent of proceeds are donated to a Minnesota charity.