Take an otherwise delicious thing – a taco – and run it through the bizzaro-world restrictions the city places on food trucks (take good food, wrap it up and store it in a hot box that kills the flavor) and you have the Taquero Fusion truck.
Along with rotating specials, the truck serves skirt steak, chicken and veggie tacos in flour tortillas. Both of the meat options we tried (steak and chicken) were dried out and the tortillas way too chewy, consequences of time in storage at 140 degrees. Until we added some mild salsa and the truck’s “fusion slaw” (a pretty tasty mix of red cabbage, lime, jalapeno and carrot), the tacos were an unrelentingly dry experience. Honestly, we’d have a hard time ordering them again. The No Carne taco, however, was fine, with the peppers, onions and mushrooms providing enough moisture that everything tasted like it should.
Side orders of beans and a couple of kinds of rice are available as is a “spiked” guacamole, which comes with a mix of tortilla and plantain chips. The guac was a little garlicky, probably from using garlic powder, but enjoyable enough. The beans had ample bacon in them and were delicious.
From the moment that news of the truck was announced a few months ago, I wondered how the truck’s owners were going to deal with the problem of hot storage. The short answer? Not very well. It would be interesting to try the tacos in a catering setting (which they do), as a fresh preparation would make all the difference. Maybe in a few months they’ll be able to do that on the streets as well.
Best bet: No Carne taco
Rating: 1.5 out of 4 trucks
On Twitter: @taquerofusion
On the web: www.taquerofusion.com