By Lou Bustamante | SF Weekly Blogs
Our weekly bite explores the city’s food trucks, one at a time, highlighting our favorite mobile dishes and snacks.
The Truck: Brass Knuckle
The Cuisine: Rock n’ Roll themed sandwiches and snacks
Specialty Items: Anything from the fryer
Worth the Wait in Line? At peak lunch time, a total 20 minutes from the end of the line to food in hand.
The heavy metal lifestyle has never been about restraint, or contrite about the visceral sounds and behavior. Brass Knuckle, the heavy metal tribute food truck unapologetically lives the same way: sex, drugs, and deep fried foods.
The truck is the domain of Shellie Kitchen (possibly not her real name) who earned her chops in culinary school and working on line in fine dining restaurants after quitting her corporate day job. The mother of three sees the truck as a way to be in the kitchen and still spend time with her family. Kitchen’s love of heavy metal music inspired the cuisine and names of the dishes. Look for items like Prawn n Roses ($5, crispy prawns, cilantro crema, pico de gallo, slaw) or the Gwar ($4) garlic fries that conjure up images of the front row being sprayed with ketchup. Thankfully, you don’t. But that would be rad.
The Fryin’ Maiden ($9, buttermilk fried chicken, aioli, apple jalapeño slaw), for its caloric heft is light enough that it won’t conjure up the Number of the Beast on your ass the rest of your day. The chile-spiked, deep-fried chicken breast, is less crunchy than you would expect, but the meat is juicy and surprisingly rich for being lean meat. That richness gets brightened up by the tart apple pieces mixed in the mayo-based slaw that added some necessary acidity to keep it from being ear-splittingly loud with richness.
This truck reminded me of the Vodoo Van, another rock truck, and got me daydreaming of a day we might see a battle of the bands style “Monsters of Squawk” hard rock chicken sandwich competition. A boy can dream.
Brass Knuckle, like the heavy metal lifestyle, isn’t something you do for your health, but a chicken sandwich after on an especially hungover morning will take you from Eddie to ready.