By Jonathan Bender | Pitch.com
It’s too easy to use frozen french fries. They’re readily available. They cook consistently. And most of us just gobble them down with no regard to whether they started fresh or frozen. So if you’re going to serve fresh fries out of a mobile kitchen, you really have to care how your fries taste. And it’s clear that the Detroit Coney Food Truck cares.
The rolling homage to the hot dog of the Motor City has some killer fries ($4, available in cheese, chili or chili-cheese iterations). They’re skin-on, beautifully crispy on the outside and soft like fire-kissed marshmallows on the inside. They come out of the window too hot to eat, but you’ll sear the roof of your mouth anyway as you shove spuds in your face with all the self-control of Amanda Bynes and an open Twitter account.
For those who have been to Detroit, you’ll find the food truck’s Coney (there’s a book dedicated to the Michigan tradition) to be an accurate representation of the ubiquitous franks. Topped with yellow mustard, a thin chili – existing somewhere on the spectrum between sauce and tailgaiting chili – and raw white onion, it’s a multi-napkin affair. In a city starved for hot dogs, it’s a welcome addition.